認識抹茶的味道 - Various flavours of matcha

Posted by Michael Senchamatcha on

抹茶樣貌雖然每款都差不多,但顏色、味道到價錢等可以相差很大。首先要知道抹茶有幾種味道: 
* 苦 - 就像苦瓜吃下第一秒/口就會感覺到的味道,是很多人覺得茶要有的味,但綠茶未必是苦的。苦味在烘焙(尤其高溫時)時較易留下的味道
* 澀 - 和紅酒一樣有種令人口乾的感覺就是澀味,也是在烘焙和飲品裡令茶味存在的感覺,會在口內停留一陣子(亦是跟苦味分別之處)
* 甘 (或回甘) - 有像花旗參般帶出甘甜和在嘗後一兩秒才帶出的回甘味道,甜味較清澈易被其他味道掩蓋
* 旨 (或叫鮮味) - 有人說是紫菜的鮮甜味道是日本茶最特別之處,一般只在飲品上感受到,如在拿鐵上的奶酥較強亦會有機會掩蓋這味道
* 綠 - 這是指綠色會否帶黃色。很多朋友以為越貴的抹茶會越綠,但實情是一般食品用抹茶(龍膽、若竹)是混入了其他綠茶所以會有機會較黃,純抹茶如青嵐或以上綠色會有深淺。
這五款抹茶: 龍膽、若竹、青嵐、五十鈴和又玄是丸久小山園有名用來做烘焙/甜品的茶款,而它們的味道其實是頗大分別。我們對這些茶粉的味道做了個評分,5分是這五款茶內最高,0分是最低。

龍膽 Rindou
龍膽 Rindou
若竹 Wakatake
若竹 Wakatake
青嵐 Aoarashi
青嵐 Aoarashi
五十鈴 Isuzu
五十鈴 Isuzu
又玄 Yugen
又玄 Yugen

Matcha looks almost the same for all, but if we put them together, you’ll see the colour, aroma, and most importantly taste, are fairly diverse. Let’s understand them:
* 苦 Bitterness - it taste as if bitter melon is eate, the bitterness is sharp and first noticed when swallowed. Many thought bitterness is a must for matcha and is apparent in bakery but it isn’t the case: some may show little or even no bitterness.
* 澀 Astrigent - similar to tannin in red wines, the astrigent creates a dryness in one’s mouth and is a character of matcha in general. They usually last longer in mouth than bitterness and is apparent in bakery or dessert / drinks.
* 甘 Sweetness or aftertaste - a long sweet feeling that comes after astrigent taste that may last longer. Sweetness from matcha may not be apparent after baked.
* 旨 Umami - some may find it taste like seaweed where its umami / savoury flavour is strong. Umami is usually apparent in drinks but sometimes with cream if tea umami is strong enough.
* 綠 Green colour - it indicates how green it is. Less scores mean more yellowish green. Once the matcha hits ceremonial grade (ex. Aoarashi, not purely for baking), matcha can have different green colour tones.
The 5 popular matcha: Rindou, Wakatake, Aoarashi, Suzuki, Yugen from Marukyu Koyamaen shows a wide differences of the flavour explained. We give them a subjective score so you can visualise their differences.


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